Will these bolt straight on?....

Yep, the old Volvo/Carlton saga continues here.

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Will these bolt straight on?....

Postby shoveitnz » 13 Oct 2007, 17:22

and will i need a bigger diameter master cylinder to drive them
(i think I will..)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=006

Are they a good price?..

hmmmm :?
NZ desperately needs more immigration and fresh blood. Our eyes are getting far too close together!

http://retrorides.proboards86.com/index ... 155&page=1

http://www.vauxhallviva.com/vivaforum/v ... hp?t=10258
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Postby Gordo » 14 Oct 2007, 08:54

I'm not sure about the caliper clearance for all the 13" rims available - I'm sure others have used this setup and can advise.
As for the master cylinder, you're going to have to work out the difference in piston area as the clamping force will be proportional and if the area is larger, the line pressure will be less at the locking point which means less pressure and braking at the rear. If you've good sticky tyres, this may not be a bad thing as there'll be more weight transfer requiring a greater bias to the front.
However, a larger surface areameans a greater displacement of fluid during operation and as the pads wear. The former point means the pedal travel 'may' be longer before the pads bite, wether this is a problem will largely come down to the driver preference and, if it's too low, a larger cbore cylinder may be required but pedal loads may increase. The latter point may require more frequent topping up and remembering to drain some fluid when replacing pads so it doesn't overflow at the master cylinder when the pistons are pushed back.

TBH, - best option would be an adjustable pedal box so you can select the optimum bores for the front and rear and adjust the line pressure proportion.

Personally, if I didn't already have vented four pots to fit, I'd grab them myself.
ttfn

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Postby Shoveitpusher » 14 Oct 2007, 13:57

i have run volvo 4 pots on a standard servo and master cylinder with manta drums, as i recall the pedal was ok - i did several rallies like that.

the issue i had was clearance and i ground the caliper away - at my own risk with a full knowledge of the implications.

my new setup has a similar issue, this time cured by 10mm spacers on the front, i wouldn't go any wider on standard studs, though Tim has some longer studs which will be going on with the alloy hubs making things a bit more robust.

not sure if i owuld want to pay that much but it is a full kit.
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Postby Gordo » 15 Oct 2007, 08:13

Which wheel(s) - design and size - did you try over the caliper? Some alloys may clear easily but steel wheels may not.
ttfn

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Postby Shoveitpusher » 15 Oct 2007, 10:40

all 6"
ATS, alleycat (crosswire clasisc type) and some german make i can't remember - very light though
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Postby Shellysowner » 15 Oct 2007, 10:52

Shoveitpusher wrote:alleycat (crosswire clasisc type)


Rallye Specials (like mine)?

Shoveitpusher wrote:and some german make i can't remember


MSWs?
Doive wrote:I remember last summer being in another Chevette with a quite mad driver, and we were drifting round A class roads at 65mph with the tail sliding progressively on the corners. It was fantastic.

1980 Chevette L Hatch
<s>1980 Chevette L Estate</s>
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Postby Shoveitpusher » 17 Oct 2007, 07:07

yes that's them and i really need to look, but they are in Norfolk and i'm in Koln

again

very very bored at present
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Postby CR500Dom » 27 Oct 2007, 13:52

Pete have you not thought about the Astra GTE set up and Audi discs ?

Gives you 256mm vented discs and a much better single piston Caliper design, much lighter than the Volvo/Carlton set up too :wink:

my 7x13`s fit over them as well

HTH
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