ooo New LEDS

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ooo New LEDS

Postby Shuvit-pinto » 06 Dec 2005, 23:57

Hufff, just spent the evening changing the instrument back lights to green LED's. What a cuffufle, have to remove steering shroud, steering wheel, part of the ventilation piping and then break you wrist to undo the speedo cable before you attempt to push the Instrument cluster out from the back.

Then spent ages modifying the black plastic cover bit that goes in front of the fuel temp guage so as to get a better and more even light. Then it made it "to better " so spent another age modifying the LEDs .

The end result is a nice green back lite panel to match the green car. :D

Tried some LED bulbs in the reversing lights but they were way to dull so put them in the indicators :( . Worked well on hazard but again dimmer than the Tungsten bulbs and would not work on left, right indication, something to do with the low power draw!! Double :( :(

If they were as bright as the 21 watt tungsten bulbs I would change the lot as it looked awesome the way they went on and off instantly instead of the progressive glow of the tungsten bulbs.

My head lights, however, are working really well with the 100/80w Halogens and boy do they light the road up on full beam when assisted by my 100 watt spots I fitted. :D Shhhh, I know but I am ignorant and did not know, honestly osifer :roll:
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Postby Neilyman » 07 Dec 2005, 00:07

I`ve got white dials with blue leds in mine :)
Quick tip if ya take the clocks out again.......
Under the drivers side, on the edge of the tunnel, is a `P` clip hoding the speedo cable. undo the 1 screw holding it, then ya can pull the cable out with the clocks. Disconnect it without dislocating your wrist or loosing skin. Don`t take it off the g/box.
Reassembly.... do the above backwards. ;)
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Postby Doive » 07 Dec 2005, 00:13

I've been playing with LEDs for a few years now in cars and various other places. Bult one of those LED pillar bulbs you see endlessly pedalled on ebay, but with the brightest LEDs on the market at the time - 13,000 mcd outdoor signalling LEDs only available to industry. These babies removed your retinas at fifty paces, especially as I had overdriven them to the tune of 150%, so really 20,000 mcd each. Ouch. When fitted to the car the hazard warning lights irradiated everybody within a 10 metre radius, but annoyingly the indicators just flashed erratically.

At the moment I'm playing with an LED system for the Astra tail lights like those fitted to the very expensive BMW 3 series coupes and the big Mercs. So far I have successfully completely destroyed one tail light, and also blinded myself repeatedly by looking directly at the LED.
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Postby Shuvit-pinto » 07 Dec 2005, 00:33

Some one was selling a relay to combat this frozen indicator problem, but can't remember where now :roll:

So, where can I get brighter LED's then Doive as I would love to fitt them to the old Chevette.
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Postby Shuvit-pinto » 07 Dec 2005, 00:34

Nice one Neilly.

Will look at that next time I take it out.
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Postby Neilyman » 07 Dec 2005, 00:43

I have a very bright red multi led bulb in the O/S reversing light holder, I rewired it to be my rear fog light. Cleans the bottom end up not having an after thought fog light hanging off the bumper.
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Postby Shuvit-pinto » 07 Dec 2005, 00:48

What an absolutly bloody excellent idea that is Neilly.

What MCD LED is it that you have and where did you get it?
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Postby Neilyman » 07 Dec 2005, 00:55

Shuvit-pinto wrote:
What MCD LED is it that you have and where did you get it?


No idea, sorry, I scrounged it from a Rep where I worked at the time
I think it`s got 7 big clear leds in it, the ones with the lenses on the end.(lights red though) It burns retinas if looked straight into without the light cluster lens in place.
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Postby Doive » 07 Dec 2005, 01:30

Those sound like 10mm LEDs mate, so very possible to have up to 10,000 mcd each for the very brightest ones of those. The extremely bright 5mm LEDs I managed to source were manufactured by Agilent opto division, and are the ones as used in the latest generation of traffic lights. So a bit bright then. I'm not sure if they are available any more to the public, I had trouble tracking some down last time I looked. You can get some fairly bright ones from RS or Farnell (whose online database is frankly stupid), but these tend to be a bit expensive. I get the ones I'm using now from Rapid Electronics, they are a good trade off between output and price, being about 6000 mcd and 10p each.

I had a long love affair with the Luxeon range of 1W emitters from Lumileds, for their size the output is just staggering - 140 cd per die. Unfortunately the output from one is simply not sufficient to replace a filament bulb, I've tried! The resulting package looked superb though, I think I may still have it kicking around somewhere. Also, at 8 quid each they are a bit on the pricey side for burning (as I also did to a couple). However, they also do a 5W Luxeon emitter with four diodes per die, which can be driven with a PWM signal and overclocked to 1000mA - dissipating an amp in an area 2x2mm! Unfortunately to operate like this for more than 30 seconds, the die must be attached to a huge aluminium heatsink, which then needs to be cooled by a series of PC fans. So not ideal for tail lights then.
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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 07 Dec 2005, 18:27

Neilyman wrote:I`ve got white dials with blue leds in mine :)

CHAV!!!!
Doive wrote:Those sound like 10mm LEDs mate, so very possible to have up to 10,000 mcd each for the very brightest ones of those. The extremely bright 5mm LEDs I managed to source were manufactured by Agilent opto division, and are the ones as used in the latest generation of traffic lights. So a bit bright then. I'm not sure if they are available any more to the public, I had trouble tracking some down last time I looked. You can get some fairly bright ones from RS or Farnell (whose online database is frankly stupid), but these tend to be a bit expensive. I get the ones I'm using now from Rapid Electronics, they are a good trade off between output and price, being about 6000 mcd and 10p each.

I had a long love affair with the Luxeon range of 1W emitters from Lumileds, for their size the output is just staggering - 140 cd per die. Unfortunately the output from one is simply not sufficient to replace a filament bulb, I've tried! The resulting package looked superb though, I think I may still have it kicking around somewhere. Also, at 8 quid each they are a bit on the pricey side for burning (as I also did to a couple). However, they also do a 5W Luxeon emitter with four diodes per die, which can be driven with a PWM signal and overclocked to 1000mA - dissipating an amp in an area 2x2mm! Unfortunately to operate like this for more than 30 seconds, the die must be attached to a huge aluminium heatsink, which then needs to be cooled by a series of PC fans. So not ideal for tail lights then.

i now know how Grim felt when he thought his sparkplug was knackered Image
here's another tip for ya as well. if using LEDs as facia backlighting always frost the LEDs with a high grade of wet n dry as it diffuses the light better :wink:
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Postby jifop » 07 Dec 2005, 18:57

to combat the erratic flashing you either need to add a load resistor with the LED's or use a solid state flasher relay!
Before you say anything..... no i cant spell or type!

The post above is my own personal opinion, it is not meant to upset or cause offence, if it does bugger off.

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Postby Doive » 07 Dec 2005, 21:12

I have a solid state flasher relay fitted to my car, and it still doesn't like the LEDs. Putting a load resistor on them acts to undo all the good work done when overdriving them in the first place, losing a good 10 - 20% of the luminous output.

Herbie wrote:i now know how Grim felt when he thought his sparkplug was knackered

Sorry Nick! It's my degree area, combined with my hobby so I tend to go a bit overboard.
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Postby jifop » 07 Dec 2005, 21:36

Doive wrote:I have a solid state flasher relay fitted to my car, and it still doesn't like the LEDs. Putting a load resistor on them acts to undo all the good work done when overdriving them in the first place, losing a good 10 - 20% of the luminous output.


very odd, i used a relay out of a rover 25 in the bug and it worked fine!
Before you say anything..... no i cant spell or type!

The post above is my own personal opinion, it is not meant to upset or cause offence, if it does bugger off.

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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 07 Dec 2005, 22:23

Doive wrote:Sorry Nick! It's my degree area, combined with my hobby so I tend to go a bit overboard.

no probs mate, it's just that when i don't understand something i find it very hard to take it in and end up frying my brain trying to get my head round it :?
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Postby Shuvit-pinto » 07 Dec 2005, 23:15

it's just that when i don't understand something i find it very hard to take it in and end up frying my brain trying to get my head round it


That makes 2 of us then :?
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Postby Doive » 08 Dec 2005, 00:49

It's not too difficult. Mcd refers to how bright the LED is, in milli-candela or thousandths of a candle power. Doesn't sound like much, but 1000 mcd or one candle power shone directly onto your retina is pretty bright! What else? PWM, or pulse-width modulation is a way of providing current to the LED in a series of measured pulses, so the LED is switched on and off thousands of times a second. This can't be seen by the human eye, but does allow the diode to be fed more current, as the times it is off it is able to cool and dissipate the extra power it receives. In return for a bit of nifty signal work, you can get 50% extra output from an LED.

I'll stop short of explaining the steradian and how it relates candela to lumens. :idea:
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Postby grim_b » 08 Dec 2005, 10:54

Herbie_Flowers wrote:i now know how Grim felt when he thought his sparkplug was knackered Image
here's another tip for ya as well. if using LEDs as facia backlighting always frost the LEDs with a high grade of wet n dry as it diffuses the light better :wink:


Bzzzzzz... Flop, slurge type noise.... Brain leaking through ears imagery....
:lol:
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