new floor pans

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new floor pans

Postby knight202 » 06 Jun 2005, 19:42

I need new floor pans for my 4 door 86' chevette. Is there a place that u can buy them? is there a car with almost identical floors that i can buy? do i need to go custom?
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Postby Tortron » 07 Jun 2005, 06:48

i would say make sum out of checker plate, sounds to me the easyest way to go, and then uv got non slip chromie floors :P
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Postby Shellysowner » 07 Jun 2005, 10:10

I'm not sure I agree with you there Torton, chequerplate wouldn't weld into place very well and would be pairly difficult to bend to shape. I'd be tempted to just get a large sheet of mild steel, a few metal shaping tools and a gas set (for heating it up to bend and later on for welding it in) and spend a few hours loving shaping myself a new floor...
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Floor Pans

Postby TJM » 07 Jun 2005, 16:46

These are still available from www.klokkerholm.com I am trying at the moment to get Chevette panels imported.

Before you ask no wings or front panels available.

Cheers
Tim
Last edited by TJM on 07 Jun 2005, 18:03, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby knight202 » 07 Jun 2005, 17:37

im sorry TJM what was that link? it didnt work for me
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Web address

Postby TJM » 07 Jun 2005, 18:02

Try typing in http://www.klokkerholm.com/.

Cheers
Tim
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Postby knight202 » 07 Jun 2005, 18:59

didnt find anything there for a chevy chevette
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Postby Tortron » 08 Jun 2005, 02:17

sorry, you wouldnt bent it into shape, cut it into sectioins (ie at the bends) then weld it together. could be a bit of a problem welding it to the steel body.

of course you could what me mum did back in the days when her seats fell thru the floor of her beetle. go down the local tip and take the skin off a freezer and poprivet it into place, then glue carpet down on it, and put under rust proofing stuff underneath to hide the fact that its a fridge door. past its wof (mot) straight off, then the guy she sold it do some years latter didnt even notice :o
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Postby knight202 » 08 Jun 2005, 03:10

does anyone knwo what gauge of steel was used on the chevette floor boards? also, if i decide to use a some what thicker floor pan in the area's of rust, do i really need to put all the grooves and pockets that are done by the factory?
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Postby Tortron » 08 Jun 2005, 04:27

i wouldnt think so, but plugs at the lowest points, so u could drain any water.
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Postby Shellysowner » 08 Jun 2005, 08:47

As long as the steel is roughly the same gauge or slightly thicker it shouldn't matter. TBH I'd make it slightly thicker as most of those 'grooves and pockets' are for strength. Just remember not to start welding until you've shaped the piece of metal to as perfect a fit as you can, then tack in into place and make sure it's all cushty and finally seam her up. Go and have a cup of tea, come back and wire brush it down, then give it a good thick coat of rustproofing paint. Stand back and admire :D
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Postby knight202 » 08 Jun 2005, 16:27

alright, so this rust paint stuff? i can get it here and im curious is it as thick as normal paint? is it easy to remove if i need to weld something into place?
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Postby Neilyman » 08 Jun 2005, 16:42

It`s just like normal paint, but with a high zinc content. You can also get `weld through` paint, no need to clean it off to weld bits!
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Postby knight202 » 08 Jun 2005, 17:14

awesome, thanks guys, ill have to go out and get some sheet metal now
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Postby Shellysowner » 08 Jun 2005, 22:08

I generally just burn the paint off with the gas if I want to weld to it :shock:
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Postby knight202 » 09 Jun 2005, 04:04

k, i got a bit of surface rust on my floor in some spots, so today i picked up a wire wheel i put on my drill and i ground off some surface rust, im curious, if i grind it down, so all u can see is the imprint of where the rust used to be, and its all cleaned down to bare metal, if i do that then hit it with some Rust paint, will that keep it from rusting?
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Postby Shellysowner » 09 Jun 2005, 13:09

In theory yes. In practice, 90% of the time it will but sometimes it does break through again and you have to repeat the process. If it really is only the 'imprint of where the rust used to be' though you should be fine. Also if the surface is on the inside of the car I'd say it'd be fine 99.99999% of the time.
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Postby knight202 » 09 Jun 2005, 16:26

awesome. No with riviting a new peice of metal. i dont know if i can afford to have new panels all welded in, i was considering pop riviting and using sealent...
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Postby Shellysowner » 09 Jun 2005, 18:22

knight202 wrote:i was considering pop riviting and using sealent...


errr..... I don't suppose the car needs any particular strength in the floor but it's a bit of a bodge - for the cost of getting the welding done you could probably buy yourself a small gas set and teach yourself to weld.
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Postby knight202 » 10 Jun 2005, 02:03

i think im just gunna grab like 1/8 thick steal and bend it up, pop rivit it into place and use some metal weld stuff, to seal the 2 peices together, then use a sealent, then rust paint and then that should do it :D
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