paint composition

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paint composition

Postby shuvit-tim » 15 Oct 2005, 14:48

may be a stupid question, but are chevettes sufficiently old that they used lead based paint or primer? Just having thoughts of how much protective gear to wear when sanding all the old paint away before a respray.

Also, can you use an orbital sander to do it or will it be too abrasive? dont like the though tof rubbing the whole thing down by hand!
when all else fails, rivets, cable ties and bodge tape will see you through

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Postby Harry Flatters » 15 Oct 2005, 16:55

I wouldn't worry about lead but automotive paint isn't great stuff anyway; it's a good idea in principle to keep fine dusts out of your lungs whatever the source, and prep's a horrible messy job at the best of times.

I'd suggest wearing Tyvek disposable overalls, which you should get for about £4, and a good quality disposable face mask - FFP1 should be OK if you're in a well ventilated area or FFP3 if you're really going to be in clouds of dust. The FFP3 generally have a rubber seal on, so they'll seal against your face better, but they're more £££ than FFP1.

Abrasiveness depends on the paper you use, not the tool, but different tools have different effects. An orbital will tend to leave small circular scratches which may show in the final paint; paint shops use (among other tools) something called a DA, or dual action ('random orbital') sander, which is like an orbital with an eccentric weight on to randomise the action; it also helps it cut faster. That's not to say you can't use an orbital.

It also depends a lot on how carried away you want to get, from taking the gloss off to give the new paint a key to a bare metal respray, and what type of paint you're going to use to respray.
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Postby Tortron » 16 Oct 2005, 07:32

i have no doubt that my chevette has lead based paint (or so every one has a laugh about) because its dammed near indestructable 8)
This text comfirms the fact that directly above this is a line
"as you would expect on a car of this age..."
The chevette vin decoder
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Postby shuvit-tim » 16 Oct 2005, 14:23

cheers harry. as for what paint i'm going to be using i have no idea as yet! Open to advice! but the most important thing is i'm wanting to keep things cheap! I have a mate who will do the spraying for £50. It desnt have to be a perfect finish as i'm sure it'll get battered about as a rally car but i dont want it looking dog rough either!
when all else fails, rivets, cable ties and bodge tape will see you through

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Postby Harry Flatters » 16 Oct 2005, 18:07

There may well be people on here who are much better placed to advise you on paint than I am, but I'll be glad to help if I can.

The one thing I would say is that 80% + of a respray is in the prep - no pressure!
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Postby Shuvit-pinto » 16 Oct 2005, 19:39

I have just used a good 2 pack paint called Imron Traffic. Its about a £12 per liter and you will need activator and reducer as well.

It covers like billyo and goes easily. When cured, about 12 hours it dose so with a mega shine and is also tough and t-cut able too.
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Postby Shellysowner » 16 Oct 2005, 19:45

Ah, but can you get Vauxhall Orange Tan?
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Postby Harry Flatters » 16 Oct 2005, 20:33

Mark, is it isocyanate?
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Postby Neilyman » 16 Oct 2005, 23:04

Don`t breath the fumes from `Knacker Lacquer 2 pack` for gawds sake! :shock:
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Postby shuvit-tim » 16 Oct 2005, 23:27

also - to help my diss this time - what are VOCs? other than really nasty chemicals?
when all else fails, rivets, cable ties and bodge tape will see you through

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Postby Shuvit-pinto » 16 Oct 2005, 23:36

Hi Harry, yes, I think it is. You will need a non mineral vapour and particle mask at minimum and a well extracted work area.
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Postby Harry Flatters » 17 Oct 2005, 07:07

Don`t breath the fumes from `Knacker Lacquer 2 pack` for gawds sake


You will need a non mineral vapour and particle mask at minimum and a well extracted work area


My point exactly. I just avoid the stuff!

(although good masks and good extraction are a good idea for any auomotive paint!)
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Postby grim_b » 17 Oct 2005, 09:48

Thought I would put my two pence worth in:

When I resprayed my Chevette I used Celleose (Spelling is wrong I think). This was done in a professional spray bay at work, but I had to hire my own spray gun and compresssor. It is hard work, but 80% is the prep. I managed a complete strip, sand, mask, primer, base coat, laquer and put the bits back on in 4 days.... Needless to say if you have more time your car will look better.

As for the health issues, if you spend over the odds for something like breathing equipment i.e a spraying mask (Try you local hire shop. They have to give you the best as it is in there Health and Safety training) ,Mine was "borrowed" from work and looked very much like a gas mask, you should live long enough to enjoy your new paint job...

Good luck. :P
I loved my car, but she has to go.... :(
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Postby Harry Flatters » 17 Oct 2005, 18:38

I should point out as we've got on to paint that the masks I mentioned above are for prep dust, not painting, for which you'll have gathered you need something much heavier duty!
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Postby iety2004 » 17 Oct 2005, 22:09

is it just me or are DA self adesive discs hard to find? or am i looking in the wrong places? The ones i have found aren't in a higher enough grit anywho.

Might be better of just switching to hook and loop. :?

Does anybody know a good paint factors online? where i might be ale to find all my painshop need without leaving the house?
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Postby Neilyman » 17 Oct 2005, 22:30

iety2004 wrote:Does anybody know a good paint factors online? where i might be ale to find all my painshop need without leaving the house?


try here!
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Postby Neilyman » 19 Oct 2005, 11:45

Hey iety, just read this thread....
http://www.chevettes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9598

You were asking for discs back in April, I gave you the same answer! :)

Do you operate in a different time zone to the rest of us?? ;)
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