Oily plugs...

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Oily plugs...

Postby Silver Girl » 07 Mar 2005, 10:59

Hello! Well we changed the plugs and ht leads at the weekend to try and cure the hiccuping we were getting, and fingers crossed it's a whole ton better so far. However, 2 of the old plugs were oily when we took them out - Mr. Haynes mentions worn bores and valves. Do we need to worry that something's about to collapse? or should we ignore it for the time being? any thoughts gratefully received.
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Postby shuvit-tim » 07 Mar 2005, 11:08

it depends on how long those plugs have been in. It may be that they've been sat there for th elast 10 years at which point i wouldnt worry about a little oil. I'd take the plugs out again in 100 miles and check for any build up. If there is oil on th eplugs then you may want to look at the problem. If your plugs were covered in crap then one of them may not hav ebeen sparking properly which would leave you firing on 3 cylinders, explaining rough running / misfiring
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Postby Doive » 07 Mar 2005, 15:26

Oil,on the plugs may be, as Tim says, because they have been in there for years. But there can be quite a few reasons for oil on the plugs. One is tired rings/bores as you say, but also check the oil level in the engine carefully if you haven't changed the oil yet yourself. If the engine gets overfilled with oil then the pistons will tend to drag in the oil that comes above the sump and into the crankcase, so they pull oil up past the rings and into the combustion chamber. The car will smoke a bit if this is the case. Give the oil a check, but if you have changed the oil then that won't be a problem.

As Tim says pull the plugs after a week of driving or so, the plugs should have started to go a nice biscuit brown colour and not be damp or burnt black at all. Black means the car is running too rich, while very white plugs show the car is running too lean. Not sure if a week is long enough to build up this on the plugs but its worth looking at.
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Postby Silver Girl » 08 Mar 2005, 11:50

Thanks for all that. I was going trying to evade changing the oil, as I figured that might require a Man to do it properly (and we're trying to do as much as we can ourselves). But I shall keep an eye on the plugs - they did look worryingly new (but i guess that means I can scrub them and reuse them). Now all that remains is to make the clutch go a bit lower...[/i]
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Postby shuvit-tim » 08 Mar 2005, 12:32

an oil change is easy peasy!

follow these steps:

1) run the engne until it is warm (this thins th eoil so that it drains better)

2) jack up the front of the car

3) take the oil filler cap off (as if you were going to top up the oil else a vacuum forms wen you drain the oil an dit wont drain properly)

4) undo the nut on the bottom of the sump. Make sure you have a large tray to catch all of the oil (check the haynes to see how much oil there will be). Bear in mind at first some of th eoil may come out at a slight angle rather than straight down. Undo the nut a little at a time until it is dripping, ten go for brke and pull it out completely! you may get a bit of oil on your hands when you do this. Make sure you dont drop the nut into th etra of oil and WHATEVER YOU DO DO NOT LOSE THE COPPER WASHER THAT IS OVER THE NUT. check this is still in place when you put the sump nut back in, if it isnt you will have to get one else th esump will leak.

5) when drained, take the car down off the jack to ensure that any oil sat at the back of the engine is still sat.

6) you can buy an oil filter remover from halfords. If you dont have one then you can simply hammer a screwdriver completely through the oil filter and use this to twist the filter anticlockwise to remove. bear in mind there will be oil inside it.

7) break the paper seal on the new filter. get a little clean oil and rub some over the rubber part of the filter where it mates to the engine, this helps it form a proper seal.

8) fit the oil filter making sure not to crossthread it. you should only tighten this with your hands not any tools, it does not need to be excessively tight, hand tight is perfect.

9) jack the car back up (if you need to) to refit the sump nut, ensuring the copper washer is in place. Tighten this with a socket or spanner. This does need to be very tight.

10) fill with oil until when you check the dipstick it reads at the max level. put the filler cap back on and run the engine for 5 minutes. In this 5 minutes check no oil is leaking anywhere. RE-check your oil levels after this time as some will have gone into the filter etc etc. top up accordingly

DONE!
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Postby Doive » 08 Mar 2005, 13:55

A few modifications to Tim's method.

The Chevette as standard is fitted with a paper element type oil filter located on the passengers side of the engine block - DO NOT PUT A SCREWDRIVER THROUGH THIS!!! Tim is talking about the spin-on type elements fitted to modern cars, not fitted to the standard chevette. Take a 13mm socket or spanner and undo the filter housing, the bolt passes through the centre of the housing into the block and the whole thing will pull away as one unit. Empty the oil into your basin and remove the paper filter. In the retaining lip in the block is a rubber o-ring seal, take this out carefully with a screwdriver and clean the recess in the block with a cloth. With the new oil filter should be a rubber o-ring, coat this carefully in new engine oil with your finger and gently press this into the recess, watching that the seal does not twist round and sit sideways in the hole. The widest part of the seal should sit flat against the block - you will see what I mean when you try it! Clean the housing out with paraffin or white spirit, replace the paper filter with the new one and offer it back to the block. Push in the bolt and tighten it up fairly tight with a socket.

I have found the best oil pan to use is a kitchen basin covered with two white bin bags! The bags are big enough to sit in the bottom of the basin and wrap round, allowing you to set the basin on the corners. Put one bag inside each other for strength. This setup allows plenty of room for the oil to flow in all kinds of directions.

When starting the engine after filling with fresh oil, pull off the kinglead from the coil to the distributor, or take the positive lead off the coil and spin the engine over for about ten seconds. This allows the oil to circulate round the engine without the engine running, as 90% of all engine wear is caused in the first 30 seconds of running due to a lack of oil. When the oil is changed the oil has to fill the oil filter that takes ages before any oil is allowed to pass through to the head. After spinning the engine, reconnect any wires you have undone and fire her up for a few minutes as Tim says.

This is all personal preference of course, and is just what I have found best when I have done it. I would strongly recommend priming the engine by spinning it over with the coil disconnected, and I would also recommend you don't put a screwdriver through the filter housing!
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Postby shuvit-tim » 08 Mar 2005, 16:04

oops :oops: <img src="http://www.foroedonkey.com/vb/images/smilies/eusa_doh.gif" />

Neily edit...Doh!
tim edit....GRRR! :twisted: :P
Last edited by shuvit-tim on 09 Mar 2005, 03:25, edited 1 time in total.
when all else fails, rivets, cable ties and bodge tape will see you through

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Postby Shellysowner » 08 Mar 2005, 17:52

Hmm I tried the screwdriver method once (not on a chevette I hasten to add). A bit oily, they I discovered that in the magical toolbox there was this cool little rubber wrap around jobber which takes a socket and undoes the thing nicely.
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Postby shuvit-tim » 09 Mar 2005, 00:28

most of the tools are essentially jubilee clips on a stick. somehow it isnt as satisfying as clobbering a piece of metal with a hammer until it destroys whatever you are trying to take off :lol:
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Postby Doive » 09 Mar 2005, 00:40

I agree. Had to change the filter on my mate's mini that had been lying for six years, goodness only knows how long the filter had been on there. Anyway none of the tools could even look at it, so I proceeded to batter the pish out of it with a series of bigger and bigger screwdrivers. By the end of my gentle modifications, the filter was removed with a set of mole grips as there was virtually nothing of the outer casing left. Fortunately the thread on the spinner was fine.
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Postby Silver Girl » 09 Mar 2005, 15:55

Once again, thanks for your hints and kindly expertise sharing. One question I do have is what do you do with the bowlful of oil afterwards? I'm guessing you can't just chuck it down the sink... :?
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Postby Doive » 09 Mar 2005, 16:23

Your local council will have recycling centres where you can take the oil to, these are the ones that often take old washing machines and the like. Check this link here. It looks as if all your recycling areas take motor oil, lucky you! That's the place to take it then.
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Postby Shuvit-pinto » 09 Mar 2005, 18:02

Our Local Halfrauds have on outside there place.
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Postby shuvit-tim » 09 Mar 2005, 19:08

do be sure to check first as not all mrf's will let you take environmentally hazardous waste to them.
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Postby Neilyman » 09 Mar 2005, 19:14

At the risk of `flaming`..........

I put my used oil back into empty oil containers & chuck it in my wheelie bin<img src="http://www.jms101.btinternet.co.uk/full_sets/gold/circular_bold_std/fireman.gif" />
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Postby Silver Girl » 10 Mar 2005, 10:59

Having been to our local tip (sorry, recycling centre...) I have a very strong suspicion that that's what they do with it anyway...
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Postby chris(not) » 10 Mar 2005, 23:55

Sounds like the old "people's republic" (of south yorkshire that is) is fairly green, then.

Don't think our local in Oxford just chuck it- there wouldn't be much point in the new notices saying no petrol or other contaminants in the waste oil please.

I'm sure I don't know what I'll do now with the usual cocktail of oily bit wash leftovers, brake fluid, antifreeze, whatnot and a sump's worth that inhabits my old oil containers :wink:

Can anyone explain why the forum sometimes prompts you to log in and sometimes just posts you as "Guest"?

Cheers

Chris

Neily Edit:....Filter sorted Chris! Not had any other `log in` probs
:?
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Postby shuvit-tim » 11 Mar 2005, 00:03

i get to audit these people who dont do as they should do and tell them how crap they are. and they pay me to do it. fools
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Postby Shellysowner » 11 Mar 2005, 00:04

I had a crazy randomly posting as guest problem the other day but I think that was cookie related.
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