2.3 slant 4 8v info please.

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2.3 slant 4 8v info please.

Postby Bulldognz » 30 Dec 2007, 11:47

Hi all,

I've got a pretty hot 2.3 slant 4 8v coming my way out of a rally chevette. It has been matched with a toyota w50 gearbox (bell housing etc) and locked isuzu piazza diff modified for 4 way link and discs.

Essentially all the running gear from this guys rally car. He's obtained a 16v slant four and is running lighter gearbox, diff etc.

The motor puts out arround 180bhp (quoted) but has run a big end bearing.

I'm pretty new when it comes to repairing motors and will need some advice from the best.....you guys :)

I'm picking it all up soon so i will evaluate and take photos. Lucky for me Gordo lives close so I will do my best to pick through his vast bedford knowledge.

here are my key questions:

1. What haynes manual is the best for working on the 2.3 8v?
2. How does one go about repairing a big end bearing? Is it simply pull the sump and crank bolts etc.
3. What advice do you guys have in the way of 1256 / drive train swap out.

The best part about this package purchase is that he has thrown in the engine mounts and crossmember for the gearbox so that should simplify things somewhat.

Oh and does anyone have a cheap design I could make a crane for a block and tackle to move around all this heavy stuff in my garage?

Thanks in advance for any pointers as I'm going to need it.
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Postby Gordo » 30 Dec 2007, 14:03

1/ I think we'll just have to make do with what we can find ...
2/ That's basically it - provided the con-rod is not damaged. One would also hope that the crank is within remachining range and isn't cracked - I generally crack test all the cranks (and rods) in engines I'm going to be working hard.
3/ Pretty easy removing the engine and transmission - just a case of making sure everything is disconnected. When I was younger, I'd lift the engines in and out by standing on the inner guards and using a rope around it as a handle. Can be a bit messy if the driveshaft drops out but I should have a couple of dummy shafts to stop that happening.

If you've something to hang it from, Waitamata Hydraulics have some neat little lever type winches rated to a 1/4 tonne for around $160.
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Postby Bulldognz » 12 Jan 2008, 12:21

Picked up the bits today...see pics....

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Thought i'd throw in the guy's car and engine i bought this stuff from...simply stunning.

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Postby Gordo » 12 Jan 2008, 14:37

Ooh, pretty!!! 8) 8) 8)
It's the later, Vauxhall, twin cam. Going to be 48s or Fuel Injection, do you know?
The early HS, rather than the later HSR, bodykit as well - so you have a good idea what it looks like.

I guess the trip went OK, I feel a bit sorry for your transport, though - I bet the poor thing was well loaded.

Any idea of the history of the car? I've know a few owners of them.
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Postby Bulldognz » 13 Jan 2008, 07:50

so you're telling me there isn't a manual i can get for the slant 4? It'd really help to know all the torque settings and engine assembly, cam timing etc

I've cleaned a lot of the kit up today with petrol and a bit of two stroke oil in it ;) Coming up pretty good.
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Postby Doive » 13 Jan 2008, 09:50

I don't know a whole lot about it, but is the sportpart manual not a good source of info like this? I know it provides lots of detail on suspension and bodyshell, but I would have guessed there may be a section on engine, whether that's just on how to tune the 2.3, or whether it includes details like standard torque settings I don't know.
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Postby Shoveitpusher » 13 Jan 2008, 10:03

try a bedford cf, firenza or viva manual for the engine

is the axle in the pictures an A series (or B) as it has been converted to take a full prop not the torque tube. i'd be interested in the drive flange detail, the prop and the gearbox output
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Postby Bulldognz » 13 Jan 2008, 11:13

I'm not sure on the diff yet. I know it's a isuzu piazza setup for four way suspension. as to what it was married up to I'm not sure yet.
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Postby Gordo » 13 Jan 2008, 11:50

Doive wrote:I don't know a whole lot about it, but is the sportpart manual not a good source of info like this? I know it provides lots of detail on suspension and bodyshell, but I would have guessed there may be a section on engine, whether that's just on how to tune the 2.3, or whether it includes details like standard torque settings I don't know.


Sportspart manual was more of a "buy this", "buy that" sort of deal - didn't really say much about doing it yourself.

SCORE!
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 438600.htm
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Postby Bulldognz » 15 Jan 2008, 11:27

Any ideas as to what radiator i should look out for to run with a tuned 2.3? Bedford? Isuzu?
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Postby Shoveitpusher » 16 Jan 2008, 10:17

the axle doesn't look isuzu to me, there is evidence of the spring pans being cut off, the top and bottom links are on the same plane (be very interested in the measurements of those) and the square flange on the front of the diff housing looks custom made for a torque tube. if this is an a series axle modified for single prop it's the first i have seen.

radiator:
bad luck almost every other vehicle has the position of the inlet and outlet ports round the wrong way. i believe mine is a vauxhall magnum or firenza one, i guess a viva one would do - all need to be slant 4 variants. i had mine shortened by 10mm to fit under the bonnet better and had a deeper core fitted. as yet it's untested. also the slam panel has been removed like a proper hs.

i was looking at a subaru version, but it would need to be made narrower to fit.
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Postby Bulldognz » 17 Jan 2008, 22:43

So touching on this axle...does anyone know what it is?! And when you guys talk about a or b type etc I have no idea what you're talking about? I'm assuming it's like a series thing, one newer than the other with small changes?

Here's my question to everyone....I'm not convinced I want to do the 4 way link rear setup just yet. So I'm thinking I simply want to keep the same chevette suspension layout but put in something that can take the power and has discs. I have this diff that was meant to be isuzu piazza and is welded locked with discs (as shown in pics) What are my options?

I'm thinking of welding back on some trays to hold the springs as per standard chevette and finding a new head for the diff I have or crown gears to unlock it. What other axles are available that are good options. The other options is to run the standard until it blows I guess but in the end will require replacing I'm sure.
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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 17 Jan 2008, 23:48

go to Steve's website and click the "Back Axle" link. you will learn all you need to know about what will fit and how. however, this book is quite old so doesn't mention the Isuzu axle or the Manta 'B' but you would be able to fit and use either axle as their fitment is similar to the ones mentioned.
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Postby Shoveitpusher » 18 Jan 2008, 19:06

sorry should stop using the anorac speak.

a and b series refer to mantas, a series is mk 1 manta, b series is mk 2 manta and is a wider axle but identicle. safe to 180bhp or so the story goes. it is designed to use a torgue tube. basically looks like a standard axle but heavier and wider.

the izuzu axles i have seen don't have a torque tube and the diff bolts in the front of the axle on a carrier - not seen many so this could easily be wrong.

the biggest drawback to the gm rear axle is the torque tube, throwing it away is a popular idea and used to be common knowledge, that knowledge is now skectchy, especially the detail of how the escort english axle drive flange fits on the pinion.

the axle in the picture appears to be just such a conversion, it also looks as if it used coil over springs as well.

an axle from a rwd cavalier, ascona or manta should fit quite easily, basically anything with a torque tube sticking out of the front of the diff.

anything else and you will have to weld on brackets and have link boxes let into the rear floor.
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Postby Gordo » 19 Jan 2008, 09:21

I believe the UK Piazzas were only the four link type but down here we also had a torque tube type with solid disk brakes and, if you're lucky, an optional LSD. As you can imagine, the latter are rather sought after.
Last edited by Gordo on 20 Jan 2008, 10:36, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Bulldognz » 20 Jan 2008, 09:20

if I'm correct there's one on trademe at the moment....LSD piazza that is and he wants a thousand bucks for it!
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Postby Gordo » 20 Jan 2008, 10:42

They've been trying to sell it for a while - a bit dear and who's to say how good a job they did setting it up again after the bearings were done ... ?
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Postby Bulldognz » 21 Jan 2008, 12:06

ok so I sent my motor bottem end in to get crack tested etc and it appears not only is the crank already at it's limit for grinding but it's also cracked! luckily I have another spare one which they're gonna check this week for viability and I'll get that balanced while at it. I've given them the spare pistons and conrods too to tell me if any are ok to use.
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Postby Bulldognz » 24 Jan 2008, 21:15

Not happy....engine guys are saying the engine has siezed at some stage and the cylinder need a big overstize hence new pistons @ $750. I mentioned I had a second cylinder at which point he asked if the second lot of pistons came from that which I said yes and hes said those have had a siezure too!

So I'm $1300 spent for motor, axel, gearbox and engine mounts, carbs etc and I'm now thinking I should simply go and by a jappa motor or similar.

I need everyone's feedback regarding this as I currently have engine mounts, gearbox mounts, carbs, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold and diff pretty much most things to make it fit the chevette but I'm now thinking the 2.3 is going to cost me big $$ to maintain.
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Postby Bulldognz » 24 Jan 2008, 22:27

I think I'll simply carry on down the line of rebuilding it with oversized pistons. Gordo didn't you mention using Small block chevy pistons? Probably no cheaper.
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Postby chevette adam » 26 Jan 2008, 11:21

Surely you can find another block (CF maybe) and get some pistons from another slant 4? Funny really I got 2 blocks ere.
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Postby Bulldognz » 27 Jan 2008, 05:01

The guy i got my motors from has two more at his place going free but I'm not sure they're the same block and or high compression pistons? Anyone care to let me know before I say go ahead to them on monday?

Also I've found complete top and bottom end gasket sets on ebay for like $50 amercian each....is there a cheaper place?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... T.m240.lVI
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... T.m240.lVI

I've got three oil pumps two with 3 screws and one with 4. Can someone shed some light on which if any are the high pressure ones and what to look for in checking they're ok to use again? Or point me to where I can order a new one. I found one of ebay last week but it's gone now :(
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