1196 rebuild

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1196 rebuild

Postby iety2004 » 28 Oct 2005, 14:40

Hi guys just finished rebuildng (well changing all the gaskets) the free engine i received off another forum user and realised that the haynes manual only list the valve clearence fr when the engine is hot, 0.010 exhaust and 0.006 inlet,

Should i slacken the off a bit and run the engine, wating for it to get up to temperature then re-adjust or leave as it says in the haynes?
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Postby shuvit-tim » 28 Oct 2005, 14:44

sounds like a bloody good way of removing skin from your hands on hot manifold to me
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Postby iety2004 » 28 Oct 2005, 15:02

heat prove gloves mush :wink:

u know the cheapy ones Sparco due, made of wool, wear through without u noticing and burn ur mits,

Happen to happen to me, when taking a wheel of a WRC Focus on service, touched the disc :shock: :x :? :( :cry: Painful.

I just don't know what to do,

I did get the complete engine, but the head and intake were corroded up a bit so i swapped over mine from the original engine, then realised the cut out in the top of the pitons was different, the new bottom end has smaller cut outs, but when i timed it up properly and turned it over it was ok, nothing hit. just hope it never does :(
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Postby shuvit-tim » 28 Oct 2005, 15:13

well the 1196 conversion was only to get it back on the road whilst you sorted out the SR conversion wasnt it? in which case you will probably get away with it if it isnt hitting anything at the moment. Even if it does eventually and blow the bejesus out of your head that could be oyur cue to do the conversion! :P
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Postby Harry Flatters » 28 Oct 2005, 17:30

Set 'em, warm it up, then check 'em / set 'em again.

Was the old engine a 1.2 and the new a 1.2S?
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Postby Doive » 29 Oct 2005, 00:03

Aye, as Harry says. Set them roughly to 0.020 each cold, then warm the engine until the temperature gauge begins to move, then switch off and let cool for five minutes. Tjis allows vital hot bits like manifolds to drop below flesh searing temperatures, but still keeps your valves etc hot and expanded. Set like this to the appropriate tolerances. Well, that's what I do anyway - I could be wrong!
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Postby iety2004 » 31 Oct 2005, 17:15

No no i agree, thats the way i was thinking of doing it,

just don't know, there might of been a different way of setting them, some silly procedure.

cheers

should have it running on tuesday, oncei get new oils and a service kit 4 it.

plus i'll get some picsa to see the nicley painted block 8)
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Postby iety2004 » 04 Nov 2005, 00:25

just a little up date, i change all the points and condser, set it all up and fitted the dizzy,

also the pistons where different from my old engine, had different valve cut outs, on my old engine they were d-shaped now they are just enough for the valves if u get me. so maybe the CR is ever so slightly higher, so i may have to retard the timing a deg?

then realised after 10 mins of cranking, that i had timed the dizzy 180 out, so i had to remove it and re-time, then she fired up staright away :D

runs a bit ruff due to the timing not being spot on, need to buy/borrow a timing light, i was shown once how to check the timing with a multi meter,

ran it for a bit, let it warmed up and then re-checked the valve clearences, had to wind them off a touch, not much tho

buts shes a goer!!! bloody earth on the dizzy to the coil ame off when i took it for shakedown, but soon sorted that out, just gotta sort the paint out now, think i'll be doing it myself :?
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Postby iety2004 » 16 Nov 2005, 00:51

Erm....... White smoke, running ruff for a couple of seconds after starting hot and water consumption.

Can anybody tell me an answer that doesn't have the words Head & Gasket in it?

And can somebody also say, ur not meant to change the stretchy bolts, to please me please?

I think it has u know!
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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 16 Nov 2005, 01:00

any mayo on the oil filler cap?
open the radiator cap and have a whiff of the water to see if it smells of fumes.
did you check the head for flatness before fitting it?
did you re-torque the head after it had first warmed up then cooled?
stretch bolts on an engine that old...i doubt it.
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Postby Neilyman » 16 Nov 2005, 01:02

Seems like the water is bypassing the seal between itself & the combustion chambers!

I re-used the head bolts when I did mine 3yrs ago......no probs, I don`t think they are strech bolts anyway!

Get yourself a good speaking spanner, or just keep tightening the bolts until your elbow `clicks`.
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Postby iety2004 » 16 Nov 2005, 01:08

well no mayo, already cheacked,

as for smelling the water, it has seemed to have exited the radiator no leaks tho.

I didn't think that a car that old would have stretchy bolts, but i thought i would ask never the less,

The head came off a perfectly working engine b4, well the big end bearings went, to no fault of the head. I have got another cylinder head if it comes down to it,

i think i may be better off recheacking the head bolts again, after now it has been run up and cooled again.

I didn't re-check them before, because i didn't know i should do, it doesn't say in the haynes (no suprise there then!)

If not i wonder if some magic rad weld would work?

i got a 12 car scatter this thursday, hope i don't miss it!
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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 16 Nov 2005, 01:14

[email protected]@dy heII not rad-weld. that stuffs worse than dog shlt on yer shoe. re-tighten the head, fill her full of water/antifreeze and run it without the rad cap until she's hot to get rid of any airlocks.
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Postby Neilyman » 16 Nov 2005, 01:14

`Tis only an hour or 2 to do the gasket, I`d replace it, just to be safe.
Radweld?.....nah!
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Postby Neilyman » 16 Nov 2005, 01:15

Touche Nick :)
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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 16 Nov 2005, 01:19

yes we seem to be touche-ing quite regularly these days mate
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Postby iety2004 » 16 Nov 2005, 01:22

i know i know, i don't want to use it.

I'va already put a bid in for a head set, a payne one, so should be ok,

i'll just do what u guys recommend, i mean come on no body is perfect! :oops:

still a little embarising, looked like i was doing a burnout in the street, except the smoke was coming out of engine hahaha
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Postby Neilyman » 16 Nov 2005, 01:23

Herbie_Flowers wrote:yes we seem to be touche-ing quite regularly these days mate


Great minds think alike :mrgreen:
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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 16 Nov 2005, 01:27

iety2004 wrote:I'va already put a bid in for a head set, a payne one, so should be ok

you don't want any gaskets off me then :?:
iety2004 wrote:still a little embarising, looked like i was doing a burnout in the street, except the smoke was coming out of engine hahaha

uncle buck style then :lol:
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Postby iety2004 » 16 Nov 2005, 01:36

how much would a gasket set cost off u?

on ebay, im hoping to be looking at 6.00 delivered to my door,.... hopefully :?
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Postby Herbie_Flowers » 16 Nov 2005, 01:41

ah [email protected]@cks one of me kids deleted the text file i had with the prices. £6 for a payen gasket set delivered is top notch mate. a lot cheaper than what i could get them for. do you have to use sealer around the pushrod cavities like on the chevette block?
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Postby Tortron » 16 Nov 2005, 22:33

and heres me having to pay $40 for a head gasket set, the exchange rate cant be that bad
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Postby Harry Flatters » 16 Nov 2005, 23:23

If it is a blown head gasket Radweld's unlikely to help anyway. Wonderweld would hold it back for a bit but only as a get you home, it won't cope against cylinder compressions.

May be worth retorqueing & keeping fingers crossed.

Don't use gasket sealant & they're not stretch / TTY bolts.

Make sure block & head faces are straight, clean and smooth.

Since you're combining bits of two engines make sure the bolts are the right length & aren't bottoming out (unlikely, but you never know).

Make sure bolt threads are clean and not burred & there's no oil, water or debris down the bolt holes.

Lightly oil the threads & torque bolts evenly and progressively to the recommended torque - don't go straight down to the set torque in one hit.

Run engine to operating temp & retorque.

Run engine for a couple of hundred miles and retorque again at operating temp.
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Postby Shellysowner » 16 Nov 2005, 23:30

Harry Flatters wrote:Lightly oil the threads & torque bolts evenly and progressively to the recommended torque - don't go straight down to the set torque in one hit.


...and also don't forget to tighten them in the correct order!
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Postby Neilyman » 17 Nov 2005, 00:26

...& also, don`t forget to wear clean underpants...You may injure yourself & have to go to hospital.... :)
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