Bulldog's Nugget

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Bulldog's Nugget

Postby Doive » 24 Dec 2007, 23:47

That's a sweet looking little hatch mate! Reminds me of another one we had on here about 18 months ago, really lovely little car. I'd say definitely go for the sleeper look, if you're planning to drop the 2.3 in then keep the externals standard as possible, the HS/HSR replica look has been done a thousand times IMO. A nice standard looking little hatch that gives the plastic hatch brigade a fright would be a right laugh.
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Postby Bulldognz » 25 Dec 2007, 09:08

Thanks Doive. Not sure yet. As it stands it'll look pretty standard besides wheels and suspension as most of my efforts will go into the go fast variety ;)

I'll see how tyre sizes go and guard clearance before throwing some HS guards at it.
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Postby Gordo » 25 Dec 2007, 11:46

I'm working on him, Doive :lol: , I've 6x14s on mine and I'm sure it will be better for what he's after - IMO, at least :)
The problem isn't so much the wheel size - 7x13 - as the fact that the Superlite wheels are made with a NEGATIVE 4mm offset, whereas the best fit would be around 20-25mm positive offset, depending on the specific tyres used, to ensure tyre to damper clearance on full droop.
If he could get the correct offset, it should clear everything nicely as the wheels would be around an inch further in although, as it'll be getting an Isuzu diff', the rears 'may' need a slight roll to cater for the wider track.

I haven't seen the 2.3 yet but it's claimed to be around 190hp so it should be a fun drive.
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Postby Bulldognz » 25 Dec 2007, 23:36

Hey Gordo. Merry christmas mate. Thanks for the loan of the carb balancer, it worked a treat as one of the carbs was about 2 clicks out of balance.

I must admit I hadn't put any thought into offset as I was purely making sure the wheels were 4x100 PCD. So when you say it needs to be in further is that to clear the bodywork or the suspension and arms etc?
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Postby Gordo » 26 Dec 2007, 00:32

Ah, good - certainly helps the idle :) I'd feel a lot happier if there was something to stop it inhaling the underbonnet sound-deadening, though :lol:

Yeah, the offset can be a bit of a can of worms.
Normally, you'd be aiming at keeping the stock value (37mm, IIRC) as that keeps the scrub radius (the distance between where the steering axis meets the ground and the centre of the tyre contact patch) the same. This is generally best as it keeps the steering, bearing and suspension loads the same.
However, any significant increase in wheel width will introduce problems as there is only so much room between the suspension members, inner wheel arch and outer wheel arch. This means we have to make compromises to ensure clearance - so we chance the offset to position the wheel in the 'best' place.
With the Chevette, as I mentioned the other day, the things that limit us to the inside are the dampers/shock absorbers at the front under full droop - not really a concern except the slightest contact means a WoF rejection - and the inner wheel arches to the rear (under EXTREME axle articulation, so we can basically ignore it). To the outside, as you will be aware of
:) the main problem is tyre clearance on turning - especially as the suspension is compressed and the tyre moves up into the arch.
What this means, IMO, having less offset (tyres further out) will result in heavier steering and pulling - especially when breaking into corners - and increased kickback on rough surfaces - once again, more under braking. Chevettes use a double wishbone front suspension so spring and damper rates won't change on the front but it will soften the single wheel bump characteristics on the rear - effectively making them a little softer.
You can buy shorter front dampers from TJM - I'd prefer to use the stock length as it offers a bit more travel for bump absorbtion after being airborne :wink: but that may be just me... - this will allow a little more clearance to the damper as the wheel will move less towards it on full droop.
What offset 'should' you be looking for, to minimise problems? It'll vary a little with the tyre dimensions used (the tyre specifications should have the true section width and the spec' rim it was measured on for verifying fit) but, an estimate with stock length dampers would be -
6" rim approximately 36mm
6 1/2" rim approximately 23mm
7" rim approximately 12mm*
8" rim approximately 0mm
However, you may be able to squeeze it a little closer if you're careful with the tyre sizing.
* if you could get the rims in this offset, rather than the -4mm, you'd pick up 16mm (a little over a half inch) which would certainly be a help on the front and, as I believe the Isuzu axle is around 13mm wider each side, help witht he rear guard clearance.

Oh, a problem with the Chevette is the rear of the front wheel arch when the wheel is on full lock with larger/wider tyres - forgot to mention it the other day.
Have you confirmed when you're doing the road trip to pick the gear up yet?
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Postby Bulldognz » 26 Dec 2007, 06:01

No not as yet. Wife hasn't popped her baby out yet so still waiting. Will be during January either way.
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Postby Shellysowner » 26 Dec 2007, 12:41

Nice car Bulldog - I like the black strip and window detailing and the combo of the gold wheels with gold bodywork.

Good advice about wheels offsets Gordo, but one thing that you haven't really covered is tyre choice.

Obviously the wider and higher section the tyres are that you choose then more problems you will have with clearance. Also, so long as you don't go too far the other way, the worse they will look (in my opinion).

The tyres that are on the rims look fairly well matched to the application, although in my opinon the best size for use on 13x7" rims is 195/55r13 - see my members cars thread. Another thing to watch is that any change in tyre size will affect the overall gear ratio of the car - smaller tyres give you better acceleration and a lower top speed whereas larger ones do the opposite.

My car has shortened dampers on the front, with 13x7" rims that have an offset of about ET4 and the previously mentioned 195/55r13 tyres and is lowered by 70mm. I have no problems with tyre clearance on the front, although suspension travel is limited by the bump stops (currently being modified) and the wheels are very close to the arch - so i'd say that Gordo's et12 calculation is pretty much spot-on.

Hope this has helped rather than confused you more!
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Postby Gordo » 26 Dec 2007, 13:35

Tyre diameter, rather than 'size', wasn't really a concern within the context but I did state several times that the ET was an estimate and clearances would vary with the tyre used.
Isn't a 195/55-13 a little small? I use a 195/60-14 and that measures around a 1/4 inch larger diameter than the stock 155-13 tyre, depending on manufacturers rounding of, yours seems at least an inch too small?
Then again, we are looking for different things from our wheel/tyre combinations, aren't we
:wink:
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Postby Bulldognz » 26 Dec 2007, 23:26

All i know is that the 2.3 coming is 180bhp odd at the crank so I'm gonna need some good fat rubber on it to get power down :) I can't wait I tell you! I want to hang the ass around some corners with a big smile on my face. Assuming I don't run out of talent at the wrong time :P
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Postby Gordo » 27 Dec 2007, 06:10

Hahaha, we have so GOT to get you into some tarmac motokhanas! Loose surfaces can be more fun but there simply isn't the smoke and noise!
The Hibiscus Coast club have a couple coming up in January but I don't know what the surface will be - probably grass which is still fun with a 1256 - especially if it's wet! And if you should "run out of talent", there's heaps of room to make a real job of it, hehe.

Want to start spending money on the Shovit but waiting to hear back from the chap selling the XE parts - really after the steel rods and head/cam's but will have to see what he has/wants for it ...
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