Dom's Kadett

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Postby CR500Dom » 14 Aug 2007, 15:26

Gordo wrote:

There are two basic variants of Piazza axles* - as you say, one is a four link, non-torque tube, LSD with vented brakes - found on the Isuzu Piazza Lotus Turbo' - this MUST use at least a 14" wheel - to clear the caliper.
However, the lower spec' piazzas had a torque tube axle, similar to the Chevette, that had un-vented disc brakes and normally a non-LSD but some were fitted with one standard or optioned. A 13" wheel may clear these brakes, depending on design. Quaife, I believe, sell a torque biasing diff' for this if it isn't already fitted with one. You could check with the Piazza forums for more info'.

*I've one of each.


We only got the 4 linked one over here I think
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Postby Doive » 07 Sep 2007, 20:52

Man, that's a lovely bit of floor work going on there! Wish I had half that bloke's skills with the formers and the welder. Excellent updates, good to see progress.
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Postby CR500Dom » 07 Sep 2007, 21:56

Doive wrote:Man, that's a lovely bit of floor work going on there! Wish I had half that bloke's skills with the formers and the welder. Excellent updates, good to see progress.


Thanks Doive, and thanks for fixing the links too :oops: :wink: :D

I knew I could just leave the car with him, tell him how I wanted it to look and let him just interperet that as he saw fit.....

Bloke is a star, and there is more to come as well :wink:

Cheers
Dom
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Postby CR500Dom » 27 Oct 2007, 13:31

Quick update,
Theres loads of new pics in the proper thread, of all the new fabrication done :wink:

Heres a taster of some of it

Image

I cant wait to get back on with it now I have it safely back with me :wink: :D

Let me know what you think ?
Cheers
Dom
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Postby Mantadoc » 27 Oct 2007, 19:13

Fantastic work!

I'm just wondering if you've ever driven an old beetle / 911 / camper van / Citreon BX? I just hate the feel of bottom hinged pedals, I hope you like them.
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Postby curryracer » 29 Oct 2007, 23:46

That is a great looking car ... very mean and moody in the near dark!

But just a couple of questions..

Did you consider using an exhaust tunnel or losing some of the spare wheel space and having the exhaust run over the axle and directly into the boot space then out the rear panel like the HSR?
Wouldn't that have given you more ground clearance for the exhaust?

I don't know if the pics of the seat fittings show the final position of the seats but the transverse bars seem a little far forward.
I guess if this is just going to be a street/track day car then there won't be too much loading of the rear of the seat.
In my experience lots of bumpy driving results in the seat runners bending over the rear mount.

I'm just curious about these points as I hope one day I will be in a position to mount my seats and exhaust like that.

Cheers Chris
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Postby Mantadoc » 30 Oct 2007, 21:35

Yep, Dom you should definitely consider doing something like this :D

Image
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Postby CR500Dom » 15 Dec 2007, 01:43

Updated the main thread as the Engine is out again now, so I can chop the standard sump about to clear, and so I can clean up the engine bay ready for stitch welding, strengthening smoothing and paint 8) :D

Currently it looks like this:

Image

Image

Cheers
Dom
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Postby Galgeth » 19 Dec 2007, 14:57

Dom

Did you strip the paint from the engine bay using just a wire brush? I have been using nitromores, petrol and an angle grinder wire brush and have not been able to get half as good a bare metal finish as you! The nitromores doesnt even take the undercoat off? Whats your secret? - elbow grease?
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Postby CR500Dom » 19 Dec 2007, 18:59

Nitromors, scraper, and the key ingredient is those metal pan scouring pads :wink:

Put the nitromors on, leave for a good 10 minutes, then give another coat

It helps to have a couple of sections "Going" at any one time then you can swap between them

Scrape until it starts getting hard again, then recoat and repeat

The other Nitromors trick is clingfilm (Although I havent used it on this one) once you apply the Nitromors, cover the surface with clingfilm as it puts more of the chemical into the paint rather than evaporating in fumes

Oh and lots of elbow grease :wink: 8)
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Postby Galgeth » 27 Dec 2007, 22:25

Thanks Dom,

Ill give the clingfilm and scouring pads a try!
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Postby CR500Dom » 26 Jan 2008, 15:01

Thread has been updated with more pics

Cheers
Dom
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Postby Trevette » 28 Jan 2008, 00:03

I have to say i'm loving the build pictures, and a huge well done for all the work done so far. I'm particularly impressed with the welding in the rear, good job.

Could you pm me the part number for the wilwood pedals as i'm after something similar for mine. And what the hell have you done to get it sitting that low??? Trev
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Postby CR500Dom » 28 Jan 2008, 14:29

Trevette wrote:I have to say i'm loving the build pictures, and a huge well done for all the work done so far. I'm particularly impressed with the welding in the rear, good job.

Could you pm me the part number for the wilwood pedals as i'm after something similar for mine. And what the hell have you done to get it sitting that low??? Trev


Hi Trev, saw yours up at Autosport :wink: looked very nice

Pedals are from Rally design, they are the 5:1 ratio

but to be honest I`d get a set from TJM or Ian Jemison as they will pretty much bolt in, these need the old box removing and will want mods to the Scuttle/enginebay to fit properly

I cant use the "Works type" as I have moved my steering column as well, to straighten up the wheel and gain some more clearance for an exhaust

As for getting it low :wink:

You just have to keep chopping till it sits right :wink: but I cant get a trolly jack under the front Crossmember now :roll:

The new rear 4 link set up will allow it to run that low and still have suspension travel 8)

HTH
Dom
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Postby Trevette » 29 Jan 2008, 00:45

CR500Dom wrote:
Trevette wrote:I have to say i'm loving the build pictures, and a huge well done for all the work done so far. I'm particularly impressed with the welding in the rear, good job.

Could you pm me the part number for the wilwood pedals as i'm after something similar for mine. And what the hell have you done to get it sitting that low??? Trev


Hi Trev, saw yours up at Autosport :wink: looked very nice

Pedals are from Rally design, they are the 5:1 ratio

but to be honest I`d get a set from TJM or Ian Jemison as they will pretty much bolt in, these need the old box removing and will want mods to the Scuttle/enginebay to fit properly

I cant use the "Works type" as I have moved my steering column as well, to straighten up the wheel and gain some more clearance for an exhaust

As for getting it low :wink:

You just have to keep chopping till it sits right :wink: but I cant get a trolly jack under the front Crossmember now :roll:

The new rear 4 link set up will allow it to run that low and still have suspension travel 8)

HTH
Dom


Thanks Dom, and thanks for the ASI comment. I didn't think anyone on here spotted me there. I'll definately consider them pedals, i'll probably opt out of getting mine that low though, but i'mloving yours. Can't wait to see it when it's finished. Will you be bringing it along to Billing?
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Postby CR500Dom » 29 Jan 2008, 16:16

Not setting any definate dates for it at the moment, just want to crack on and get it done :wink:

I am thinking that the inside/engine bay and underneath will all get painted before it goes back together, the outside may have to wait a little longer :wink:

Want to concentrate on getting it running right and using it rather than polishing it and showing it

200+hp rwd and a Plate type LSD means its probably going to get spanked off something anyway :D :D
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Postby andy » 31 Jan 2008, 12:40

CR500Dom wrote:
You just have to keep chopping till it sits right :wink: but I cant get a trolly jack under the front Crossmember now :roll:



i had to buy a new clarke low entry racing jack and that only just fits under my crossmember still need to bump the car alittle bit!!!

well worth it though :D
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